Words and Photos by Cody Jackson @crjackson9
Sitting on the couch in a daze, my golden retriever, Honey, curled up at my feet, I became aware of myself staring out the window of my Colorado home. It's that kind of thousand-yard stare that comes about after a life-altering experience. Last night I returned from a week-long vacation centered around a four-day backpacking adventure on Iceland's Laugavegur & Fimmvörðuháls Trails. Was it all just a dream? I ask myself with no answer. It truly feels as though I travelled through a portal into another world. A kind of magical, thrilling, kaleidoscopic world of colorful steaming mountains, geothermal hot springs, glaciers, volcanoes, lunar-like lava fields, lush birch forest, rushing braided rivers, and much more. How do I make sense of it all? Maybe it's best just left up to mystery.
Iceland is a Nordic island country between the Arctic Ocean and the North Atlantic Ocean, located on the Mid-Atlantic Ridge between Europe and North America. Around 400,000 people inhabit the island, with the majority of the population living in the capital city, Reykjavik. It is culturally and politically linked with Europe, and the official language is Icelandic. The Gulf Stream influences Iceland's moody weather, and it has a temperate climate, despite being at a latitude just south of the Arctic Circle. During the summer months, Iceland experiences the "Midnight Sun" effect, featuring nearly 24 hours of daylight, while winters have short days, sometimes only a few hours. If you're lucky, the colorful Northern Lights can be seen.
The Laugavegur & Fimmvörðuháls Trails are Iceland's premier hiking destinations located in the southern highland region. They combine to be around 50 miles in length and approximately 10,000 ft of elevation gain through an amazing variety of landscapes. The highest elevation point is at Hrafntinnusker, reaching 3,743 ft. The most popular starting point is Landmannalaugar, nestled within the Fjallabak Nature Reserve. The trailhead can be reached by the Highland Bus from Reykjavik in around five hours. The trail's terminus is the thunderous 200 ft tall Skógafoss waterfall in the small coastal village of Skogar. Along the route, there are a series of backcountry huts conveniently spaced throughout with adjacent tent camping available. The huts are owned and operated by Ferðafélag Íslands (FÍ), the Iceland Touring Association, which was founded in 1927. For experienced hikers, a four-day itinerary is sensible, but it could be done in a shorter or longer timeframe. The weather can be unpredictable, so it's important to stay flexible with your plans.
Something I've found over the years to be proven true is that our best adventures are those enjoyed with great companionship. When beginning to plan this trip, I knew right away that I wanted to share it with my dear friend Lawrence, AKA "Wild Thing". The two of us met in 2017 while thru hiking the Appalachian Trail (AT) early on in our hike. We stayed together for around 2,000 miles until the finish on Mt. Katahdin, and formed a tight friendship that has lasted ever since. The beginning of August would be a fitting time for our immersion into Iceland's backcountry. It would provide the best weather window for the summer hiking season, and it would commemorate the same time of year we took on Maine's 100 Mile Wilderness along our final push to the AT's northern terminus. Wild Thing is based in Wales, so it was a fairly convenient flight for him, and thus we rendezvoused in Reykjavik at the Dalur hostel. Though we had talked on the phone and video chatted during the planning months, we hadn't seen each other in person since the summer of 2019. Much had transpired in our personal lives and the world at large. But without skipping a beat, we met up with a warm embrace, had a hearty dinner at Reykjavik's The Icelandic Bar, and got right back into the swing of things just like old times.
In order to stay safe and enjoy Iceland's wilderness, one must come prepared with the right gear and know how to use it. In Iceland, nature reigns supreme, and you must respect its power. While there is much to cover on the topic of gear, I will focus on several key takeaways. The temperatures I experienced remained above freezing and fluctuated between 40s and 50s degrees Fahrenheit. For clothing, a good layering system with a stormworthy waterproof shell jacket is especially important. Quick-drying, thermoregulating, and insulating materials like wool and synthetics are very effective. I wore a pair of lightweight trail running shoes and was fine, but a case could definitely be made for waterproof boots. At the time of our hike, there were around a half dozen river crossings, and while I crossed barefoot without issue, some folks might find it helpful to bring a lightweight pair of water shoes or sandals. Water is plentiful along most of the route, and a 1.5-liter carrying capacity was sufficient. Trekking poles come in handy often, as there is steep and variable terrain. Aside from the huts, the majority of the route is very exposed to the elements. If forgoing sleeping in the huts and choosing to camp as we did, one should have a tent that they are confident setting up and that can withstand heavy winds and rain.
A backpack in the 35-55 liter range is ideal. My Hyperlite Mountain Gear (HMG) Waypoint 35 backpack, Versa hip pack, Drawstring Stuff Sack, Large Pod, Stuff Sack Pillow, and 10L Side Entry Pod were all excellent performers in my kit. Each item gave me peace of mind knowing it would keep things dry and stand up to the rigors of Iceland's dynamic weather and terrain. To help lighten my load and reduce volume, I repackaged freeze-dried meals into quart-size zip-lock bags and heated/rehydrated them in the HMG RePACK. This has been a clever trick for optimizing space with lower volume UL packs on multi-day treks I've employed since the Colorado Trail last summer.
At the end of the Laugavegur portion of our hike at Þórsmörk, I strolled into a hut to get a break from some passing rain and enjoy a well-earned beer from the shop with Wild Thing. Upon walking in, we seated ourselves at a picnic table with a friendly man and woman who introduced themselves as Colin and Jennifer from Washington State. They are adventure buddies and members of The Mountaineers Outdoor Club, a Pacific Northwest-based nonprofit outdoor community founded in 1906. "Hey! Hyperlite!" Colin exclaimed as he saw me set down my Waypoint and Versa at the table. They shared their love for the brand and showed me their Southwest backpacks. Additionally, their packs were adorned with the Camera Pod and Shoulder Pocket on the straps. We had a nice chat over how well the gear performs and how it helps us optimize our experiences and accomplish our goals while adventuring in nature. Colin mentioned being a camping skills instructor and trip leader for the organization and disclosed some exciting plans to visit Greenland after Iceland. We went on to share stories of our favorite hikes and provide recommendations for future trails to explore. The Hyperlite Mountain Gear community is its own special tribe within the world of outdoor recreationists, and it's so nice spotting one another on the trail. The gear serves as a great conversation starter and makes us feel connected.
A story about Iceland wouldn't be complete without mentioning the "hidden people" or Huldfólk. These are supernatural beings living in nature and a significant part of Icelandic folklore. It is generally understood that they are typically benevolent, and when shown respect, will give it in return. While enjoying the outdoors, keep a watchful eye, and it should become apparent fairly quickly that they are present in the landscape. Sometimes their faces and bodies can clearly be seen in rock outcroppings, and other times they visit your dreams and can be sensed in the environment. It's good to bring an open mind to this subject and embrace it. Think of it a bit like cloud spotting and interpreting abstract art. Rhinoceros mountains, troll heads, dragons, sentinel elves, and much more. There are a plethora of characters to behold, reminiscent of Tolkien's Lord Of The Rings.
A journey through Iceland lingers in your system long after the trip's ending. As I looked through the window into the bluebird Colorado sky, memories came flooding back. Wild Thing and I sauntering through the days with a kind of jubilant rhythm, marvelling at the extraordinary scenery while reminiscing on our AT escapades, waxing philosophical, commiserating about the madness afoot in the world, rejoicing in fatherhood and family, heartily laughing, discussing gear, and sharing recommendations for books, podcasts, and movies. There is something very special about friendships formed on long trails. We seem to be less guarded, more engaged in the present moment, and coming into contact with a familiar and ancient way of expressing the connectedness of our humanity. Like the mountains' myriad of colors blending together, so did the people of the world on the Laugavegur & Fimmvörðuháls. Walks of life from countless nations all across the globe had come together to share in the appreciation of this magical place. Over breakfast in the mornings, we could hear the sound of other hikers rejoicing in many different languages. And for a while, the world was right.
After eight years and thousands of miles of long-distance backpacking adventures, I can say confidently that mile for mile, the Laugavegur & Fimmvörðuháls Trails packed into 50 miles the most jaw-dropping and enchanting hiking I've done to date. Right from the start, it's full throttle, and you barely get a chance to catch your breath as the scenery captivates you continuously. There truly never was a dull moment.
