Words and Photos from Neil Irwin @neil_irwin
After a battery (pun intended) of unexpected obstacles the first time Neil and his friend Benn embarked on the Cape Wraith Trail, they made their return and earned an almost perfect finish. Read about their first go HERE.
Three years later. Time to finish what we had started.
It took three years for Benn and I to align up our dates to set about finishing the Cape Wrath Trail. Older? Yes. Wiser–debatable. I don’t know about Benn but I had certainly grown a few extra grey hairs since we began the trail. But we were damn well sure we wanted to finish what we had started. Finally.
And that’s the funny thing. We literally finished it before we started. The Cape Wrath Trail, for those who don’t know, has a firing range at the end of the trail, engulfing the lighthouse that marks the finish line. Yet, on the days we planned to finish at Cape Wrath, the firing range was due to be operational, which makes the area a complete no-go zone. (Apparently, it’s the only place in Europe where NATO forces can drop a 1000lb bomb!). So, we had to come up with a new idea:
The Kinlochbervie Trail via Cape Wrath.
Why Kinlochbervie? Because it’s where you have to walk back to in case you can’t access the Cape Wrath ferry that ships tourists across the estuary, which is only open during summertime, and we would be out of season by a matter of days. So, you’d have to get to the lighthouse, turn round, and go back the way you came in (or not as you can pretty much make up the route as you go as there’s no paths to follow–just a route guideline). And so we started the remainder of our trail at Kinlochbervie.
Turns out we were in for a pleasant surprise, though. Beginning of October and Benn and I were hiking in literally just T-shirts. Such glorious weather for the start of the month, which was ironic as the weather during summer beforehand had been terrible. Must have timed it just right–somehow. At least the boggy ground wasn’t completely saturated with a deluge of rainfall that can easily occur during October (although it wouldn’t have mattered too much being in highly breathable trail shoes as our feet would be wet anyway). Not to mention one of the darkest nights I had seen in years whilst staying at the Strathcailleach Bothy. Literally dazzled by stars as far as the eye could see, not to mention the faint outline of the Milky Way. Could have stared at it for hours if it wasn’t so chilly.
Yet the hike to the Cape Wrath lighthouse was still lovely enough. Seeing the end on the horizon (despite being only on day two of leg two), was a glorious sight. After arriving, necking a cup of tea and a Mars bar, and getting a quick photo, we were offered a trip (at great expense) across the estuary. We couldn’t say no as we would have technically finished the hike at Cape Wrath and saved ourselves a day of hiking back to Kinlochberive. Not only that, but we managed to hitch a ride back to our vans thanks to a couple telecoms engineers who we bumped into whilst at Cape Wrath. #winning!
After staying the night in our respective vans, we made our way the next morning to Ullapool to begin hiking the Kinlochbervie–I mean the remainder of the Cape Wrath Trail. Sun still glaring, and again still in T-shirts. Starting about 11AM, our aim was to reach another bothy called The Schoolhouse.
The simple 4x4 track was easy to follow and allowed us to make a good time and pace–all with dry feet! The loch was also beautifully tranquil, especially with the small rowing boat tied up in an almost mirror-like loch. Made for a pretty serene photo. (Also perfect for stone skimming. Who says you have to grow up?!) It was almost dusk by the time we arrived at the bothy. Perfect for us, though. And by other bothy standards, the schoolhouse was pretty well maintained. But this is the great thing about the trail - you can pick and choose how you want to hike the trail. You pass numerous bothys whilst out hiking, so as long as your provisions allow, you can hike as fast or as slow as you like. It’s meant to be an enjoyable trip, after all - not an FKT.
Autumn (Fall) was definitely starting to set in and seeing the leaves slowly change red and yellow was lovely. The cloud also soon followed as scattered rain showers would occasionally pepper us. Still not the deluges we thought may come through. The feet definitely got wetter, and the bog that Scotland is renowned for got boggier. Sometimes, our feet would feel refreshed walking through the cooling bog, but by now - they were just getting cold from the constant drenching step after step. But with the weather turning, Scotland began to show its moody side which I think is possibly the best mood of Scotland. Yes, Scotland can be glorious in the sun (but definitely not the midges or the ticks), but the grey overcasting of low clouds surrounding the Munros really is something.
Our last bothy stay at the Glendhu bothy turned out to be our last night on the hike. Being ready at 10 AM instead of the normal 9 meant we were already an hour behind. But the day before was a hard slog through drenching weather, however, so we didn’t stress too much. It was just a welcome sight to be in a bothy and not have to put a tent up. Amazing what a morale booster four walls and a roof can be in a wet environment. The 4x4 track leading up and away really showed off the scope and grandeur of the glen and loch with what we could only assume was a seal splashing and playing around below. We would leave the track and head inland up and over a hillside before heading down to a road where a decision needed to be made. Either bog trot and erect tents in the rain on potentially sodden ground or make a bee-line for the vans, which would be a further 15 miles of pavement pounding on the road with the enticement of fish and chips to finish near the van, which would mark our finish line. It was however, a question where there was only one answer.
15 miles of pavement pounding was, however, not fun. Although we racked up a good pace, I preferred to walk on the verge where I could to help the old knees and ankles. But the miles were soon eaten away along with plenty of random and thought-provoking conversations as you do on the trail. Nightfall soon came as we made the turning to Kinlochberive, and we found, to our shock and horror, thanks to the joys of modern-day technology and social media, that the fish and chip van would be closed despite the opening times saying otherwise. A slight downer, to the finish line, but the point is we finally finished. Was it the most perfect of routes? Probably not. BUT we made it our own and completed the trail. FINALLY.
And the sweetness of that evening? After downing some nosh where it felt like 1000-calorie meals were just a starter and driving back to Ullapool, where my van was kept, the northern lights (aka the aurora Borealis) were firing up. It looked like a hazy cloud in the sky despite being little other cloud around. But for ME, this was my first time seeing this magical event, even if it was faint. And the fact I got to see it in Scotland made the finish that little bit sweeter to mark the end of the trail.
